Dan has been a licensed, journey level electrician for some 17 years. He has extensive experience in most areas of the electrical trade. While someone just becoming an electrician most likely has a severely limited budget, the set of electrician's hand tools is not the place to cut cost by buying cheap tools.

Cheap tools will not last and are much more difficult to use; a simple rubber handle on a screwdriver can make a large difference if you have to use it all day.

Make sure that high-quality tools fill the new electrician's tool bag. The same basic tool may come in many different brands with many different prices, so I will recommend brands as well as the actual tool where applicable.

Klein makes high-quality electrician tools, as do Knipex, Ideal and Greenlee. Milwauke, Dewalt, and Bosch make professional quality power tools. Below I'm going to discuss some very specific recommendations, with some links to places you can look at them and buy them. There are dozens of different styles of pliers available and the well-equipped electrician's tool bag will contain several of them. A good set of needle-nose pliers is indispensable for the electrician.

Klein and Knipex both make a very good set, with built-in wire cutters, and even a stripping hole for 12 wire, both of which are handy options. Needle-nose pliers for the electrician should always have the wire-cutter option. The Knipex set also includes crimpers for ferrules. A good heavy set of lineman's pliers will often be needed. Again, Klein makes a very good set with an optional fish-tape-pulling arrangement on the side of them: The arrangement on the side is far preferable to the same type of option where the fish tape fits between the handles; it is far too easy to receive a very nasty pinch with that style.

Side-cutting pliers, or "dikes" are common to every electricians tool set. These are used to not only cut wire, but nails, staples, MC cable, and other items. Make sure that the jaws are specially hardened for such use, not merely intended for cutting copper or aluminum wire.

Klein makes two different sets; one with red handles and one see below with blue handles and hardened jaws. Knipex also makes a good set of side-cutting pliers. These pliers should be in the 8" - 10" length. Commonly called channellock pliers a trade name a 8" or 10" pair of slip-joint pliers will be required. Recommended here are the Knipex Cobra 10" pliersor even the three-piece set of 7", 10" and 12" lengths.

Although not truly pliers, a pair of wire strippers is a necessary item in the electricians tool belt. Wire strippers are available for Romex wire, but far more common are simple strippers for 10 and smaller solid not stranded wire.

Ability to strip 8 and 6 wire is a plus, where available. Recommended are either Ideal or Klein strippers; Ideal is usually a little cheaper, though Klein is more comfortable to use.

Don't buy the automatic style of wire stripper, just a simple pair of wire strippers for several sizes of solid wire. GB offers a set of wire strippers with a built-in voltage tester, but they cost considerably more. As wire strippers are considered a "throw-away" tool they wear out frequently the extra cost really isn't worth it. In addition to wire strippers, get a razor knife.

One of its many uses is cutting the sheath on the NMC wire used in residential. Using wire strippers for this will sooner or later damage a wire. Included in this section are screwdrivers, nut drivers, and similar tightening tools for the electrician. A top quality set of screwdrivers will be in every electrician's tool bag. You need to include a cabinet tip flat blade, a larger flat blade, a 2 Phillips, a 1 Phillips, and a 2 square tip.

Klein is recommended, but Ideal also makes an acceptable screwdriver set. I recommend Klein, in the medium length shaft. The Klein set with long hollow shafts is useful in some circumstances, but not worth the extra trouble of carrying the long handles in the electrician's tool belt. Allen wrenches are a must. Electricians typically prefer sets of Allen wrenches, such as those Klein makes; they use both large and small sets, in SAE sizes.

Very occasionally it would be nice to have individual allen wrenches, but it is not worth the extra trouble and cost, and individual wrenches are often forgotten and lost. This is not a high-use item, nor is it used to tighten to extremes. A Craftsman brand set or the equivalent is sufficient here, but be sure it has a good selection of deep sockets.

A couple of adjustable wrenches, of perhaps 8" and 10" length, will be found in the electrician's tool set. Again, absolutely top quality is not needed as they will get light duty only; brands like Craftsman are quite adequate.

Sometimes a pipe wrench is invaluable; Ridgid makes a good pipe wrench in about the 10" size that will work well. A second wrench of the same size is advisable for working with rigid conduit. Although not strictly a screwdriver, a conduit-reaming tool is necessary for any electrician running conduit. Klein is recommended with its dedicated tool. Reamers are available for square-shank screwdrivers, but they do not work nearly as well, as the long screwdriver blade prevents the reamer tool from entering a conduit that has a bend near the end of the conduit.

You need a multimeter capable of reading up to volts is necessary; it should also be able to detect continuity. A clamp-on style of multimeter with amperage capability is preferable.

Electrician Apprentice Tools Guide | EAHQ

Fluke is the preferred brand, although cheaper brands are available and will be adequate for the apprentice who is just becoming an electrician. Every electrician should be equipped with a non-contact tester "tick tester"and many have a spare tester in the truck as well as one in their pocket. Testers that use ordinary AAA batteries are preferable. Fluke again makes a good tester. A plug tester with a built-in GFI tester is necessary and fairly inexpensive.

Nearly any brand will work just fine here. These are simple testers that will test for the presence of various specific voltages as well as continuity. They make an excellent replacement for a true multimeter, and most electricians will have one in their tool bag whether they have a multimeter or not. A good cordless drill kit is a necessity. As cordless tools have increased in popularity, the sawzall has become almost a requirement for an electrician, although an ordinary hacksaw will still suffice.

Recommended drill kits are either the Milwaukee or Dewalt drill and sawzall kits. The kit's battery should produce at least 18 volts, and the kit should contain at least two batteries, though three are very handy. A one-battery charger is sufficient for most people, although dual battery chargers are available. If possible, get a kit with a flashlight. The new lithium batteries are a major plus, and far superior to the older nicad batteries if you have the money.

Purchased separately they are expensive and require a special charger, so they should be purchased with the kit if at all possible.

Avoid cheaper brands for drill kits if possible, as their lifespan is limited, their batteries are generally lower quality, and the charge doesn't last as long. Cheaper kits such as Ryobi and Makita are an option, if you keep this limitation in mind, but the new electrician needs to realize that they will need replacement in only a year or so.

The newer cordless impact drivers are a very, very nice addition to the tool bag, and again should be considered if funding is available. If possible, the drill itself should be a hammer drill, as the electrician is often required to drill masonry or concrete.

These are not common tools found in every household. It may take some time to learn to bend conduit properlybut it is time well spent. A good torpedo level is an absolute necessity; don't get the cheapest one.

Strong earth magnets to hold the level onto conduit or other metal surfaces will delay the occasion when you drop the level and have to replace it. A plastic case will loosen over time and result in poor readings: Checkpoint brand is recommended see below. A good quality measuring tape in either a 25' or 30' length is mandatory.

Get a tape measure at least one inch wide: Stanley makes a very good tape measure their "fat max" series that I recommend. You can see that an electrician will need a tool belt, to keep some of the items above. There are many styles of tool belt for different trades. An electrician's tool belt should have several pockets on one side for small parts and supplies, and pockets on the other side for hand tools.

It should include a place to hang electrical tape and a loop for a hammer. Too many pockets, however, can become a hindrance. The more tools and parts are added, the heavier the belt and the more work it is to wear it all day. Many electricians use a tool belt with only a couple of pockets for parts, though three are four pockets can be handy to keep parts from getting mixed up.

Several pockets will be needed for hand tools, with loops on both the inside and outside for pliers. For specialty work, such as installing large numbers of switches or plugs, a small sheath for just a screwdriver and a pair of pliers can be very handy, to pare down the weight on days when the electrician knows they will need only a few hand tools.

Consider a set of suspenders for the belt, as they distribute the weight to the shoulders and make carrying the belt an easier job. They are spendy, however, and can wait if necessary. Whether your tool belt is leather or nylon is a matter of personal taste.

Do make sure, however, that the belt buckle is adjustable and long enough to accommodate winter clothing. A tool belt constructed with heavy-duty stitching and rivets should last for years. An electrician's tool belt should be available at your local home improvement store such as Home Depot, and they are widely available online, including at Amazon. A tool bag is also quite desirable, to transport tools into the job site each morning and remove them in the evening. Theft of tools is quite common at job sites during night hours and most electricians won't risk losing their precious hand tools.

The electrician's tool bag is one place, however, where some money can be saved: A whole host of tools are useful to the electrician, but the tools above are the primary tools every electrician needs. Some suggestions for the future might include a tubing cutter of the type plumbers use as it is useful for removing conduit from around wire without harming the wire.

Ratcheting cable cutters are nice but very spendy nearly as much as the required drill kit. More and more work is being done with MC cable, so cutters and strippers for it are useful as well. A cheap calculator is nice, but most cell phones now have enough capability for most electricians. Additions to the cordless drill package such as a circular saw or a peanut grinder can be handy, but can be added later and are of only limited use in any case.

Most electricians will eventually own a ' roll-type measuring tape. The list can, and will, go on and on. You will need pencils and sharpies indelible markerssome kind of knife razor knife, box cutter or large pocket knifeand other common household items. As you progress towards the journeyman level, you will need more exotic tools unfortunately often more expensive ones. But the tools listed above should start the apprentice just becoming an electrician down the road they need to follow, well stocked with electrician's hand tools.

Sign in or sign up and post using a HubPages Network account. No HTML is allowed in comments, but URLs will be hyperlinked. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites. Wow, this could have earned you a hubnugget award did it? You've been a member here for about as long as I have Unfortunately no award, but thanks for the comment. Yes, about the same time on HP - I hope you're enjoying it as much as I am. Great information, I am pretty much a handiman and I was very interested in the tools I love them and have most of the ones you talked about.

Would even like a little more information about how to use some of them. Thank you for the compliment. If you are interested I have written several hubs on the use of hand benders, as well as one on the non-contact voltage tester.

It's always a question for the apprentice - just what to buy and what is necessary vs what is nice to have. Thanks for the comment. I am not familiar with that model. Saluda livestock auction sc would have to say, however, that 12V just isn't going to be enough. Even if the drill is designed to produce enough high torque at low speed to drill large holes the battery simply won't last at that low a voltage.

Even if it could drill that size hole through a 2X4 or a panel can it won't drill very many and the drill probably won't last long either. On the other hand, it would probably do fine if are binary options taxable uk you are doing is driving screws. An impact driver with 18V will drive many, many screws before needing charged and it doesn't overwork the driver at all even with large screws into 2" lumber - I don't see why a lower voltage wouldn't work nearly as well.

If this is what you're doing, check out impact drivers. I've just added a link in the drill section of this hub to a hub on impact drivers - you might check it out.

Journeyman Plumber vs. Master Plumber | yzyjifoh.web.fc2.com

You can buy smaller drill bits to drill wood that will fit into the driver, and I have used a spade bit up to around an inch with an impact driver, but wouldn't want to do it on a frequent basis. Thanks for the feedback. Im in technical school now. In 9months I will graduate with a degree in electrical maintenance and construction technology. The way I see it I have two possible paths. What direction would you recommend?

I'm assuming your degree will put you in the field with tools in your hands and not behind a desk designing either a construction job or maintenance program. Given that, construction will put you all over the place and maybe all over the country. Every few best stocks with dividends to buy and hold now you will have a new job to work on with much different challenges.

You may well be unemployed part of the time while between jobs. Maintenance, even at a large facility, will soon become the same thing day after day. You will be more stable in both employment and location I spent 20 years doing most of the electrical maintenance, among other things, at one location.

Pay per hour is probably better in construction, but maintenance probably won't see the common layoffs. They are two very different fields, with very different pros and cons. Both have there long term capital gains holding period stock options challenges.

If you have a family the maintenance may well be better because it is more stable, but the pay probably isn't as good. It's a tough choice. I've found I like construction far better, but being laid off periodically hurts. Thats pretty much in line with what i have been thinking. Thanks again for the dialogue. I do have a family and was already leaning towards manufacturing maintenance. What wokingham core strategy adopted of tools do you believe to be vital for someone starting in that field?

In my very limited in industrial maintenance the company has provided virtually all the tools. I would suggest saving up for when you graduate and get a job so that you can, if necessary, purchase the tools you will need. It could vary considerably from company to company as the actual maintenance could be very different. One might include installing a good deal of new equipment with all new conduit and wire while the next could forex volatility trading strategies full of high tech electronics and require a laptop as a primary instrument.

Just one additional thought on the field; if you are interested in one day owning your own company it will be very unlikely in the maintenance field. Construction and installation could well turn into a private business one day.

Eur usd historical data bloomberg risky most small businesses fail but it can be highly rewarding as well. My brother and I I can't figure out why I dislike electrical work so much I typically enjoy the work. I don't, however, wire homes - all of my work is either commercial or industrial and it is a lot more varied and interesting than residential work.

Always something new and different, whereas when you've done one home you've pretty much done them all. Yeah - that's my thoughts on wiring homes, hanging lights, and slinging plugs and switches - it's sort of mindless busy work that gets you some exercise in.

Wages and Benefits

Of course my dad and his two brothers and brother in law and then - all of their sons except me and my brother - are pretty much all with Master's licenses. It pissed my Dad off the way they'd changed the laws here in Texas - making it easier to get that Master's license.

I like electrical troubleshooting in residential air conditioning - I'm not so talented at it that I can do much more than light commercial. I really like that stuff because you are constantly moving - and can wind up going to five to ten different service calls on a good day.

While I can enjoy the challenge of a service call usually something has gone wrong somewhere and it's often not electrical at allnot in residential. I'm not much of a rafter rat and don't enjoy crawling around the crawl spaces through rats, snakes and spiders, either.

No, give me a nice clean, warm commercial job. I'll put up with the craziness of customers. I once had a woman and her little girl sit down how to get your money from binary options 101 rest on the lift I was working from 20 feet over her head she jumped up pretty quick when the lift moved a couple of inches! You've sort of reminded me here about a hub I intend to write.

I wrote one about "the worst service call that I ever went on. I've been disappointed with most of my hvac hubs - I've about determined that folks aren't too interested in reading about that stuff - I think most just hit the phone book, or call the people that they already know when there is a problem!

You may be right about HVAC hubs. I will work on my heat pump up to the point that I have to deal with Freon. I just don't have the knowledge or tools for that, and I doubt that many do. I'm a little more fortunate in that everyone has a screwdriver and can change a light switch or something with just a little help, and I can provide that. First, be aware that there is a difference between having a rubber-cushioned handle and being insulated.

Most of the rubber coated handles are not listed by the manufacturer as insulated against high voltage - the rubber is for comfort only, and is well worth the extra cost. It also gives extra grip - screwdrivers can be turned much harder with a rubber handle than a plastic one for instance. True insulated tools are quite a bit more expensive and seldom necessary.

My own tool kit has all rubber handles, but zero insulated ones. The rubber, top money making franchises canada even how much money does an apprentice lineman make plastic handle, will insulate from electric voltages well enough in the voltage range I deal with, which is typically up to volts.

Work with screwdrivers, pliers or wire strippers all day long, though, and that comfort provided by the rubber handle quickly becomes worth twice what it cost. If you ever had gauges and the gas It gets profoundly more difficult though, when someone is trying to charge one in heating mode - that's hard to get done.

I'm sure you could - I've watched and it just isn't that complex a job. It does, however, require specialized tools and equipment that don't have a lot of use elsewhere - it isn't reasonable to buy these things for just one job. As you say, a pyrometer of some kind, gauges and gas to start with.

If you need to re-fill, there is probably a leak that needs fixed and now don't you need an evacuation system to be legal? Cheaper to just call a serviceman for this kind of thing. You only ever need a recovery machine if there is gas in a system, and you're replacing either the compressor, filter, or planning to REPAIR a leak - then forex trading vs stock market need to use a vacuum pump to not only remove the oxygen or atmospheric "air" from the system Or to simply pay someone to charge the thing It's a bad deal for everyone, Sir, and some of the manufacturers in the US have slipped on quality to very bad levels of late - and the whole situation Wired wrong, defective ballasts, broken or missing parts; it's always something.

It's why I recommend only top quality tools for tradesmen - you can generally trust them and many carry a lifetime guarantee. I'd worked for years for a contractor who'd decided how to make money breeding dogs sell Nordyne equipment Westinghouse, Tappan, and their other brands.

The systems that he'd sold So he stopped selling Nordyne But there was one customer that had bout an expensive 14 SEER system It could only "find" them within six to eight inches of space that had copper tubing going everywhere.

I wound up finding the leaks from pressurizing the system past running capacity That shit shouldn't have ever passed quality control Oh I can believe it! In our case by the time we find the defective fixtures it is to the point that they have forex 3mm cena be installed NOW.

Which means we have to fix them at our expense. We'll get ballasts for free, but all labor and small parts are essays on the stock market game to cover.

Manufacturers know we can't wait - given that, why try for a high rate of "perfects"? It doesn't cost them anything to put out crappy work - engineers and architects choose the fixture based on appearance and price, and we fix them for free.

An electrician and a lineman carry very different tools for very different purposes and I know next to nothing about a lineman's tool set. Thank you very much for this! I am in high school and will be starting a CO-OP program next year to become an electrician.

Looks like I'll be in for some tool shopping, one of my faourite activities! Niall, you make me jealous, going tool shopping for more than just one or two items. It's been a long time since I did that. Have you used all the tools your recommending? I have both a Milwaukee and a makita impact set, and the makita has both outlived and outperformed the Milwaukee by far.

I have owned and used Dewalt, Milwaukee and Makita power tools, although the Makita brand was quite a while back. I have never used a Milwaukee tool I didn't like and in terms of longevity and power Dewalt compares favorably. Milwaukee has generally won in terms of ergonomics though not always. Makita always seemed to be a lighter weight tool, not really suited for long, hard use. Considerably cheaper, but without the power or life span. At the same time, however, I have borrowed several Makita tools in the past few years for short term use and was impressed - Makita has made long strides in producing a quality tool.

Unfortunately, they have also increased the price to around the equivalent of the top tools.

What is the Salary of an Apprentice Lineman? | yzyjifoh.web.fc2.com

Not sure here, apprentice. I've used two pouches, but one of them is just a tiny thing to carry strippers and screwdriver for trimming switches and plugs. Not actually a pouch at all. I've always simply re-filled my regular pouch as jobs went from one phase to another. Won't be running pipe? Dump the conduit reamer and parts for it - refill with wire nuts and nut spinner. Or whatever the next task takes. Yes, I'll have to do that several times as I may go back to pipe the next day, but it saves buying a separate set of bags, and good ones aren't cheap.

Plus, I always carry a few of the same tools - screwdrivers, channel locks, etc. I don't know anyone that carries two complete sets of bags - never heard of such a thing. Always good to hear from a new apprentice starting out - here's wishing you luck in your career!

Is it possible to become an apprentice or even a pre-apprentice before the age of 18? In the future, I plan to work as a residential electrician. I want to get some college credits as well as work experience to get a head start in life.

I reside in Oahu, Hawaii and want to know if there are any apprentice ships or pre-apprenticeships in the near future that accepts year olds. This would vary a great deal state to state. Child labor laws will come into effect, as will requirements for becoming an apprentice. I would think that 17 year olds should have no problem starting an apprentice program, but at 16 years it could be problematic. The best I can offer is to check with the authorities in your state.

Perhaps a building safety department, or where a builder would get a building permit - they could surely direct you to the right place. The individual was using his set of strippers to strip off the outer insulation of Romex wire Get a good razor blade knife to cut the outer insulation when cutting Romex into a box: I've seen even journeymen doing that, and I even tried it myself.

For about two wires; it didn't take long to realize that damage was almost inevitable. A razor knife box cutter just doesn't do the damage that wire cutters will in removing Romex sheathing.

I know you're the real thing I'm just an apprentice with I might go test for a Texas Journeyman's license soon though - I'm good at passing tests I don't know about Texas, but around here a journeyman's license is good for about double the money.

Worth the effort to get, in other words. I absolutely agree that a variety of marketable skills is extremely valuable in today's world. You just never know when you will be laid off or a company will fold and you will find yourself once more in the unemployment line. Great information in general. I have to disagree about wire strippers being a 'throw away'.

Usually, they fail when I sit on them or step on them and bend them, or I cut into a live circuit one too many times. In my opinion, the Kleins will last at least until you screw up and lose them, step on them, or otherwise do something stupid to break them or knock them out of alignment.

I don't know - those Klein strippers are the ones I use, too, and I wear out a pair a year or so. They get dull and won't cut anymore, though they DO last better than anything else I use. Maybe cutting lots of 10 and 8 solid wire is what hurts - I do that a lot as more commercial jobs require solid wire. It's true that I usually ruin them first, though - just as you say, cut a live wire.

Still, I've got a pair in the toolbox right now that are simply dull - I keep them in case I ruin the good pair and need something for a day or two until I can replace the ruined pair. Brandon, it should be. Depending on the specifics of what you will be doing, there may be a few other items not included here; a punch down tool or low voltage scissors, for instance.

On the whole, however, it should do well. I suggest you check with the center, and come back for specific recommendations as to type or brand. Useful list - its the testing equipment which cost the money, but there are also some pretty cool products out there. Fluke are great, and have some advanced stuff. The information here just seems plain irresponsible for those not in the know. Volt stick aren't reliable enough to trust that you're not going to get a belt and these may be good tools but not one of them seems to be insulated.

Someone asked what is the need? Then you'll buy some insulated tools: I should have specified that I was referring to the adverts placed for uninsulated tools of the same brand mentioned after each paragraph. This should be monitored as it is misleading and seems as if you are endorsing these tools. In seventeen years of using the tool almost daily I have never had a false negative.

That is, it has never reported no voltage but the line is hot. I HAVE had it report a voltage when there was none, but I can live with that happening very occasionally. That's correct, Sean - I do not recommend insulated tools except in special circumstances. They are considerably more expensive, and to maintain their insulation value must not have even a small nick on the surface of that insulation. As there is seldom a need for working "hot" though we all do itbetter to use an effective tester than trying to maintain insulated tools through the knocks of everyday use.

Nor is it unheard of to work with uninsulated tools: I have never seen an electrician on the job under volts with a toolbelt of insulated tools.

They just aren't that useful, and I will go so far as to say that no new apprentice the target of this article has any business working hot on anything but perhaps volts. Please rate this article using the scale below. The scale is from 1 to 10, where 10 is the best and 1 is the worst. Other product and company names shown may be trademarks of their respective owners. HubPages and Hubbers authors may earn revenue on this page based on affiliate relationships and advertisements with partners including Amazon, Google, and others.

Recommended Hand Tool List for the Apprentice Electrician Updated on May 31, It takes more than a conduit bender to make an electrician, although it is a start. Quality and the Electrician's Hand Tools While someone just becoming an electrician most likely has a severely limited budget, the set of electrician's hand tools is not the place to cut cost by buying cheap tools. Important Safety Tools for Electricians. Using a tick tester, or non-contact voltage detector.

Find hot wires before cutting or stripping them. Know what voltage you will be dealing with, and whether it is hot. Primary Electrician's Tools There are dozens of different styles of pliers available and the well-equipped electrician's tool bag will contain several of them. Needle-Nose Pliers A good set of needle-nose pliers is indispensable for the electrician. Lineman's Pliers A good heavy set of lineman's pliers will often be needed. Side-Cutting Pliers Dikes Side-cutting pliers, or "dikes" are common to every electricians tool set.

Slip-Joint Pliers Commonly called channellock pliers a trade name a 8" or 10" pair of slip-joint pliers will be required. Wire Strippers Although not truly pliers, a pair of wire strippers is a necessary item in the electricians tool belt.

Razor Knife In addition to wire strippers, get a razor knife. Drivers as Electrician's Hand Tools Included in this section are screwdrivers, nut drivers, and similar tightening tools for the electrician.

Screwdrivers A top quality set of screwdrivers will be in every electrician's tool bag. Allen Wrenches Hex Keys Allen wrenches are a must. Adjustable wrench A couple of adjustable wrenches, of perhaps 8" and 10" length, will be found in the electrician's tool set.

Pipe Wrench Sometimes a pipe wrench is invaluable; Ridgid makes a good pipe wrench in about the 10" size that will work well. Conduit Reamer Although not strictly a screwdriver, a conduit-reaming tool is necessary for any electrician running conduit.

Electrical Meters and Testers Every electrician's tool bag needs to include several meters and testers. Multimeter You need a multimeter capable of reading up to volts is necessary; it should also be able to detect continuity. Tick Tester Non-Contact Voltage Detector Every electrician should be equipped with a non-contact tester "tick tester"and many have a spare tester in the truck as well as one in their pocket.

Plug Tester A plug tester with a built-in GFI tester is necessary and fairly inexpensive. Specialized Voltage Tester These are simple testers that will test for the presence of various specific voltages as well as continuity. Drill Kit A good cordless drill kit is a necessity.

Level A good torpedo level is an absolute necessity; don't get the cheapest one. Measuring Tape A good quality measuring tape in either a 25' or 30' length is mandatory. Tool Belt and Bag Tool Belt You can see that an electrician will need a tool belt, to keep some of the items above. Tool Bag A tool bag is also quite desirable, to transport tools into the job site each morning and remove them in the evening. Other Hand Tools for the Electrician A whole host of tools are useful to the electrician, but the tools above are the primary tools every electrician needs.

Wilderness are you familiar with the Milwaukee M 12compact line? Is 12 volts enough? I used to do that job. I pretty much hated it. I see alot of insulated tool sets. What is the need? Much better to have a leak develop at the condenser!!!! One thing I keep running into this Fall Thanks - I've modified the list to include that knife. Oh you are very kind!

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